Rebuild your Front Suspension
Tools Needed:
Socket Wrench
Open-end Wrench
Tie-Rod Remover
Screwdriver
Mallet
Spring Compressor
Jack
Parts Needed:
Tie Rod End: 7117963 a.k.a. (7372162, 7076755, 7341670)
Ball Joint: 7372170
Upper Control Arm Bushings: 7163603
Lower Control Arm Bushings: 7184443
Upper Control Arm Bumpers: 7071145
Front Shocks: 8815839 a.k.a. (7867849, 8920894)
Tips:
This is most easily done by removing the hood first.
Removing the Tie-Rod End:
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Part #: 7117963 a.k.a. (7372162, 7076755, 7341670)
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut (highlighted in red) connecting the tie rod end to the steering arm. Then use a tie-rod end remover, to lift out the tie-rod end from the steering arm. If you do not have a tie-rod end remover you can attempt to pry it out with a large flat-head screwdriver but that is not recommended. Mark where the tie-rod end is screwed onto the steering rack with tape and remove the tie rod end. Replace with Part # 7117963 a.k.a. (7372162, 7076755, 7341670)
Removing the Upper Control Arm:
Disconnect the brakes from the brake disc (two bolts) and move to the side. Be sure to support it by either clamping to the frame or with anything else to keep stress off the brake line. Next, reach into the engine bay and loosen the strap that secures the inner drive shaft boot to the transmission.
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Now, grab the spring compressor and fully compress the spring. Be sure to take notice of where the spring compressor arms will expand to. I have had the most success having the rods stick up which is one of the reasons I recommend taking off the hood, so you have room to maneuver the spring compressors and later pull out the spring.
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After having compressed the spring remove the two bolts connecting the spring seat to the upper control arm (highlighted in red). Next, tilt the front assembly forward and pull the spring seat and the base of the spring forward (you may need to tap the spring seat with a hammer to get it moving). If you cannot take out the spring and spring seat completely that is OK. Pull it as far forward as you can and then loosen the four bolts that connect the upper control arm to the strut tower and start to pull the control arm through the engine bay. This should provide enough room to pull out the spring and spring seat.
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If you have managed to pull out the spring before pulling out the upper control arm, now is the time to remove the control arm. As mentioned above take out the four screws connecting the upper control arm to the strut tower and remove the arm back through the engine bay. Take special care to mark where the shims go! Otherwise, you may misadjust your front-end during re-assembly.
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Congrats you have now removed the upper control arm!
Removing the Lower Control Arm:
Double check that the inner drive shaft boot is disconnected from the transmission. Next, disconnect the two bolts connecting the lower ball joint to the lower control arm. Proceed to pull the front assembly out away from the car. As the inner drive shaft boot gets near the opening in the chassis be sure to fold the boot and position the shaft so that it slides through the opening as shown below. Now lay the front assembly off to the side and be sure to position it so that it does not crush the brake dust cover and that there is no stress on the outer drive shaft boot so that it does not tear. Next, disconnect the shock from the lower control arm. Finally, take off the nuts connecting the lower control arm to the chassis, they are located inside the engine bay. Once, loose pull the lower control arm down until it is free. You may need to tap on the bolt ends or wiggle the control arm to pull it out.
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Congrats you have now removed the lower control arm!
Replacing the Control Arm Bumpers:
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Part #: 7071145
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If you have new rubber bumpers you can remove the old bumpers by either cutting them out with a knife or tearing them off with a vice grip. To replace, coat the bottom of the bumper with dish soap and pull it through with a small pair of pliers until it locks into place.
Replacing the Control Arm Bushings:
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Part #'s:
Upper Control Arm Bushings: 7163603
Lower Control Arm Bushings: 7184443
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Now that you have both control arms off the car you can replace the bushings. Place either of the control arms into a vice and remove the lock washers and nuts. Next, remove the brackets by wiggling them back and forth as you pull up on them. If you have no luck with that method, I have had success in the past using a small torch to heat up the bushing until either just the bracket came off or the bracket and the bushing. If after all this work the bracket is off but the bushing is still on peel off the rubber with the help of a knife and VERY carefully cut away at the metal sleeve until you can pry it off the shaft. If the shaft is damaged in anyway, clean it up before installing the new bushings.
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Now for installation, while many aspects of working on a classic car can be rewarding there are some that are beyond frustrating. Replacing the bushings on a Saab Sonett is certainly a testing task and has repeatedly proven at least for me to be the most frustrating on the entire car. I highly recommend the use of a hydraulic press, but I have had luck in the past with a small manual press. While some people have had luck using sockets and a vice, I have found that to be very temperamental.
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To press in the bushing get either two sockets or two attachments for your bushing press, one just slightly smaller than the size of the bushing, the second slightly larger than the bushing so that is has room to slide into it before it is fully placed in the bracket. Remember only use dish soap as a lubricant because any form of oil or grease will breakdown the rubber in the bushing over time. As a last resort slightly heat the bracket with a torch (be careful when working with it) and slide the bushing in with the soap. Do not get the bracket two hot or you will melt the rubber.
Reassemble the Control Arms:
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Now that you have new bushings in both control arms it is time to reassemble them. Slide the brackets back onto the control arms and begin to tighten the bracket on with the washers and nuts. Pay close attention to the orientation of the brackets as you are tightening them onto the shaft. See the image below for reference. The first arm shown is the upper control arm. The second is the lower control arm.
Reattach the Front Hub:
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Part #'s:
Ball Joint: 7372170
Front Shocks: 8815839 a.k.a. (7867849, 8920894)
Tie-Rod End: 7117963 a.k.a. (7372162, 7076755, 7341670)
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I have had the most success installing the front end in the following order:
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First, compress the spring and hold it up around the rubber bumper where it will be seated. Then bring the upper control arm through the engine bay so that is under the spring. Now, begin to tighten the four screws that hold on the upper control arm. Do not tighten them all the way yet! Take the shims and slide them into the same position they were originally in. Next, tighten the bolts that hold on the upper control arm until snug. Slide onto the control arm the lower spring support and a new ball joint and tighten the bolts until it is snug. Next, install the lower control arm by sliding the brackets into the holes on the bottom of the engine bay and tighten with lock nuts from inside the engine bay. Then install the lower ball joint and tighten the bolts until snug.
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The next two steps can be completed in either order, I have had the most success by installing in the order described below. First, install the shock (attaching to the lower control arm and then the chassis). Next, fold the inner drive shaft boot and position the shaft so that it slides through the opening as previously done for removal. Slide in the wheel hub assembly and slide on to both the upper and lower ball joints. Next, tighten the screws connecting the wheel hub to the ball joints. Then, slide the drive axle into the transmission and reposition the boot. Make sure to tighten the strap so that the boot stays attached to the transmission. Next, decompress the spring and the front end should be almost done. Then, screw on the tie-rod end to the mark you made with tape and attach it to the steering arm. Finally, reattach the brake caliper and put on the wheel.
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Congrats you have now rebuilt your Saab Sonett Front Suspension!
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